Day 11: Advice & Warning

Superior, AZ to Globe, AZ
Date: 01/12/2013
Distance traveled: 25.68 miles (588.9 miles total)
GPS tracks: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/261340351

One of the more interesting things about bike touring is how different folks perceptions influence the advice that they give. I suppose that could be said for most things in life. In the case of bike touring, I’ve figured out a pretty simple formula for how to interpret advice based on who is giving it.

Note that this mostly applies to advice with respect to how easy the route is, if the hills are hard or easy, if there is a moderate incline or decline, if there is a ‘good shoulder’, or if the route is generally dangerous. Most folks give advice as if they’re driving in a car. In a car that slight incline for 10 miles doesn’t slowly zap your energy. In a car you don’t notice the slight raised cracks every 5 feet on the shoulder that are hell on your behind. In a car you don’t notice the scree on the shoulder. Even seasoned cyclists who know these things give bad advice for routes that they’ve only driven, or biked on their carbon road bike. When you get down to it, the only advice you can trust is that of other bike touring folks… and even that needs to be tempered with your own experience. (Not to say that I have a lot of experience… I don’t… I’m just now learning how my own body performs on an overloaded bicycle. J)

A good example of this is the advice I received this morning from Charles and Mari about today’s route. I’ll start by saying that it was very good advice with respect to the danger of the route. I was sufficiently warned. They know the road I was on forward and backward – they drive it several times a week. They are both cyclists. Charles had done the route in question on a bike. Mari refuses to do it, and I understand why. It is dangerous. I understand why they offer rides to cyclists past this 24 mile part of the route. I understand and appreciate the advice to do it on a weekend with lower traffic, and in later in the day so that the sun isn’t in the motorist’s eyes. I think had I not been doing this section on a Saturday afternoon it would have been much more dangerous and I would have been less comfortable with that.


The Tunnel!!!11!!one1!!!

I greatly appreciated their concern – it was genuine, it was sweet, and I think it was warranted. However I don’t think it was as hard or as dangerous as I was previously warned. The first four miles were very sketchy, but not the worse I’ve seen. The shoulder disappears quickly out of Superior. You’re going very slow uphill. There is a tunnel I was warned about repeatedly, by Charles and Mari as well as at least 2-3 other folks. I had heard it called “the most dangerous part of the southern tier between California and Florida”, but the tunnel wasn’t the most dangerous part. It was the blind corners and the zero shoulder on the bridge that had me racing across between flights of traffic.


That bridge in the distance was the dangerous part.

The tunnel has no shoulder. Heck, large chunks of the road had no shoulder. Normally that’s pretty dangerous, but the eastbound route has either two full lanes or a single lane with a pretty normal-width shoulder. There are very few sections where it’s one lane eastbound with zero shoulder. That makes it much safer than I had been lead to believe. I will say that traffic was light enough that both lanes were almost never filled with traffic… had that not been the case, I think it would have scared the crap out of me.

The big thing is to use your mirrors, watch the traffic behind you to make sure they’re giving you room, and ride defensively if they are not. For example, I swing out and take the inner lane as I go around blind turns to give cars behind me plenty of time to see me… and then I move over to give them more room as they approach. It helps to put more space between me and the car. Of course, this only works well if you have a good rearview bike mirror to work with. Other things I do – I wear the brightest orange jacket I could find, and I use my rear lights when it’s dark (like in a tunnel) and when I’m in shadows. There’s no 100% safe on the road but I think these things work to make doing this kind of riding acceptably safe.


Looking back through Devil’s Canyon.

After the bridge and the tunnel it was actually a pretty great ride. Yah, there was a lot of up. But it was no worse than what I did on Day 2 coming out of San Diego. In fact, it was easier because there was some wicked awesome downhill, too. At the peak of the ride there is a town called “Top Of The World”. Awesome.

Altogether, today was a pretty damn fun ride despite it being so cold. I was really happy that I spent the morning hanging out with Charles and Mari, eating a great second breakfast of grits, eggs, and bacon while we swapped stories until noon. I didn’t take off until around 1pm and I was only on the bike for 3 hours today. However, it was the coldest day I’ve had on the bike yet. Colder than the Chilly Hilly last year! I ended it as the thermometer dropped below 33° F! I was quite happy to get to the Days Inn in Globe, take a shower, hit the hot tub, shower again, and then put back an entire medium supreme pizza from Pizza Hut.


Alright… so obviously it’s a little dangerous. These are both for the same person killed in 2005. Mari said there were 5 crosses made out of bike handlebars along this stretch of road. I only saw these two.


The view from on top.

Day 10: Baby, It’s Cold Outside

Phoenix, AZ to Superior, AZ
Date: 01/11/2013
Distance traveled: 72.04 miles (563.22 miles total)
GPS tracks: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/261057815

It’s cold. Like, really cold. I suppose I knew there was a risk of it being very cold on this trip, but there was part of me that didn’t believe just how cold it can get. As I write this at 8am in Superior, AZ it is 29° F. I’m heading toward Globe, AZ where it’s even colder (higher elevation). It’s going to be 33° there for most of the day. So, yah… it’s cold. So very happy I’m not tent camping in this weather.

I had dreams of the sunny southwest. For the most part that has delivered – I’ve only had one gloomy day out of the week and a half that I’ve been here. That’s much better than Seattle on average in the winter. But I’m not sure I’m willing to pay for it with respect to the cold. I will say that the averages have been unseasonably cold here – it is normally about 10° F warmer.

I had to change my plans due to the weather. First off, I’m not willing to camp when the lows overnight get into the mid-20’s – so I’ll be doing more hotels over the next week. The Adventure Cycling Association’s route takes you farther north and to higher elevation than is practical for the weather. I intended to go up to Silver City, NM and through Emory Pass. While I’m still thinking about heading that way, it likely won’t be happening now. That has me a little bummed. That way is supposed to be some of the more scenic parts of the trip, but also some of the most challenging. My alternative is to right a lot more flat and boring highway that doesn’t have me excited at all.

The ride yesterday was fine. Getting out of Phoenix took for-e-ver. I stopped to do some grocery shopping in the morning which put me on the way late. (Side note: I normally take my bike in places when I shop, eat, etc. To avoid the hassle/worry of locking it up and taking all the bags inside. No place has had a problem with it until yesterday where I got hassled by the Safeway manager. Something about tearing up her store. Meh.)

The nice part about riding out of Phoenix was the canals. I plotted a route with the help of Cary that took me along several long stretches of canal. The conditions along them were variable from sweetly groomed cement to glass-shard studded asphalt to dirt path. But it was fast, and nice not to have to deal with traffic for about 20 miles of the trip!


In Phoenix, this was pretty typical. I hear they clean out the carts once a year. Lots of glass & graffiti.


Nicely packed earth to ride on through the more industrial sections as you get close to Tempe.


Riding around the lake near Tempe


Mesa gets the award for the nicest bike paths.


Cubs spring training facility.

Eventually I did make it out of the city after about 30 miles of riding – the rest of the ride was typical desert riding to Superior. The climb at the day wore me out. I think it’s nearly time for another rest day.


It wasn’t that bad of climb, but it felt like it.


Looking down into the valley where Superior awaits.


Finally!

When I arrived at my warm showers host one of their neighbors was outside looking through his makeshift half-binocular sighting scope. Thinking it might be my host I asked what he was looking at. Dude was insane. He was telling me about all the pictures he can see in the face of the rocks that the ancients have left here for us to see. How the same things he can see in the face of the rock cliffs, he can see in various smaller rocks. How he can see the same pictures and patterns on the moon as he can see down here. He showed me pictures on his camera. He went in his house and brought out rocks for me to see. It was sorta like looking at clouds… most of the time I could make out the shapes he was telling me they were, but most of the time they just looked like swirling patterns in the rocks. Cray cray.


My oasis.

Charles and Mari are great hosts. They have this awesome old airstream trailer setup in their back yard for guests. It was nice to have some privacy for the night. They weren’t here when I got here, but I was instructed to make myself at home. So I did. I got showered up, sat in the awesome hot tub, showered again, and did some laundry before they got home. Charles and I spent a few hours chatting before they had to take off to their dinner plans. I spent the night eating out of their well-stocked fridge and watching movies on my Surface… I was so very tired. I was happy to get to sleep under that electric blanket.

Today I’m going to do short miles – only about 25 to Globe, AZ. I think I need a shorter day on the bike today in lieu of taking an entire day off.

 

 

Day 9: Hello, Phoenix

Wickenburg, AZ to Phoenix, AZ
Date: 01/10/2013
Distance traveled: 58.03 miles (491.18 miles total)
GPS tracks: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/260708190

This ride was powered by gummy bears and AC/DC. There really wasn’t much to it – a long slow downhill into the greater Phoenix area, and then a lot of wandering through the city looking for bike-friendly streets. That’s one thing I’ll say about Phoenix – there are a lot of bike friendly streets. Some with bike lanes, some without – but nice and wide for the most part.

My route was supposed to take me along some canal bike paths through town so I wouldn’t have to do much city biking at all. Unfortunately I ran into construction on the canal within a quarter mile of getting on it… and then I could never figure out how to get back on the canal.

Starting tomorrow I’m onto section 2 of the southern tier. That puts me roughly 1/3 of the way done in terms of my total 1,500 miles. Kinda exciting!

My hosts last night were great – as usual. Cary has a great setup here. I stayed in a camping trailer they’ve got set up on their property for warmshowers guests. Cary and ‘H’ took me out for dinner last night which was awesome – I was famished!

Cary rebuilds cars for a living with his dad. He has some great old cars that my dad would have love to seen. He’s got a ’63 corvette that he drives, a buddy’s ’53 Chevy that’s in great condition in the garage, and a ’61 vette that he’s in the process of rebuilding with his father.

Cary and I hung out quite a bit and gave me all the bud light I could drink – even shared some of his birthday pie with me. Talk about awesome! I wish I could stay longer… but I need to get on the road.


Cary and the ’61 Corvette.