Day 23: Motoring

Marathon, TX to Langtry, TX
Date: 01/24/2013
Distance traveled: 116.52 miles (1368.25 miles total)
GPS tracks: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/266363341

There have been some long, empty stretches where there has been nothing around for miles and miles and miles. This section of road takes the cake. It was the absolute longest stretch on the trip without services of any sort. In the 115 mile span between Marathon and Langtry there is only one town worth speaking of – Sanderson. That meant that I had to pack food and water to last me for two 50+ mile stretches of desert. Now that the temperature has warmed up, that means I’m drinking a lot more. I believe I was carrying around 7 liters of water for each 50 mile leg, and I used every drop of it.


Shirley’s Burnt Biscuit Bakery

The first half of the ride between Marathon & Sanderson went really quickly – I had the wind at my back and was going downhill. I was also powered by fried pies from Shirley’s Burnt Biscuit. I was told I wasn’t allowed to leave Marathon without trying them, so I picked up 4 for the road. I was averaging 14 mph for the first 50 miles – it felt like I was flying!

So, naturally, when I got to Sanderson I made the call to keep going. The only trouble is that I got away late in the morning since I had to do laundry – the biking clothes needed a serious wash and I wasn’t able to get to it the night before. I didn’t roll out until 11am. That meant that I was making the call to do another 60+ miles at around 4pm in the afternoon. I knew I’d be riding in the dark and I was okay with that… after all, at 14 mph I’ll be there in no time, right?

Wrong. As soon as I left Sanderson the road went from fun & fast downhill to rollers. And the wind somehow had changed directions. But that’s okay… I was still having fun.

In fact, I had a really great 3 hour ride in the dark. It was a cloudless night with a nearly full moon. It was just me, a few truckers, and border patrol out there on the road. Most of the ride was incredibly peaceful and relaxing.


A picture of the campsite taken in the morning.

I got into Langtry (population 17) around 10pm. The best option for the night was to camp on the community center’s grounds. It was peaceful and out of the way – it turned out to be one of the better campsites of the trip so far because it was so quite!

Day 22: Tourist

McDonald Observatory to Marathon, TX
Date: 01/23/2013
Distance traveled: 71.36 miles (1251.73 miles total)
GPS tracks: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/265407663


Me and John on the catwalk of the 107″. The 82″ (the first telescope built here in 1938) can be seen in the background. At the time they were built, these telescopes were amongst the biggest in the world. Now they’re tiny by comparison, but still quite useful. Research is actively going on using these telescopes on a daily basis.

Today I put the tourist back into bicycle touring.

Starting off first thing in the morning, I trekked up the hill to go visit the McDonald Observatory’s telescopes up close and personal. John gives an excellent tour – we talked for at least 2 hours about his work ranging from the computing and control systems that guide the telescopes to the maintenance required to keep them functional. John is wicked smart and clearly enjoys the tinkering he gets to do at his job – he has to be a relative jack of all trades. We started our tour at ‘the 107’, which is what the Harlan J. Smith telescope is called due to its 107 inch diameter mirror. It was built in the late 1960’s. The thing weighs 160 tons, but moves with grace and precision. We went out on the dome’s catwalk to get a view of the Davis Mountains which surround the observatory. From there, we went over to the telescope control room, and then to check out ‘the 82’ which was built in 1938. You can imagine it takes quite a bit of work to keep a precision instrument from the 1930’s running well. :)


View of the mountains from the telescope’s catwalk.


Standing in front of the 107″.


John explaining how the 82″works while filling it up with liquid nitrogen to keep it cool. Focused light can really heat things up.


Motors, gears.


Built to last.

I personally don’t know much about astronomy so a bunch of the actual research done on these telescopes went over my head. For example, we talked for a while about how astronomy helped to prove the theory of plate tectonics. The rest of it went in one ear and out the other. What did stick was the odd conglomeration of ancient and new tools that keep these telescopes useful. I found it interesting that the problems they were having were pretty common computing problems. The X server keeps crashing on this Linux box. This bus interface doesn’t have a USB translator, so we need to keep this ancient Sun Spark workstation up and running so we can use this particular camera. We can’t upgrade this machine with RedHat version whatever because the controller drivers don’t work on newer kernels. The hodgepodge of Linux, Mac, Windows, and Solaris would drive me nuts!

Many thanks go to John and Deb for hosting me for the night and the awesome tour!


John at work at ‘mission control’.


This old NOVA computer from Data General used to control one of the telescopes. If you’re a computer geek and you’ve never read The Soul of a New Machine, you should.


The domes as seen from the road.


Fast and fun road down to Fort Davis.

I finally got on the bike at 11am and rolled downhill rather quickly to Fort Davis. The scenery was magnificent. The wind was favorable until I got into Fort Davis where it started blasting me head on. I took this as a sign that it was time for lunch, and to do some more touring. I spent an hour or so at the old fort. It was pretty interesting. The only reason it existed was to protect travelers on the road between El Paso and San Antonio. One of the more interesting things about the court-martial of Second Lt. Henry O. Flipper, the first black graduate of West Point who served at the fort. Later on (in 1976) the army gave him a posthumous honorable discharge, and 1999 he received a full presidential pardon.


The officer’s houses are in the background, the barracks to the right.

Inside the barracks.


Lt. Henry O. Flipper

And then I finally, really, started biking. The weather has finally turned warm – high 70’s, low 80’s – and I’m loving it.


Lots of ranch land out in these parts.

Somewhere along the route I got stopped by crazy lady who expected $25/night to stay at her house. She wanted to know where to advertise her house to other cyclists. I told her she should try “the internet”. Mostly I was just pissed at her for stopping me mid-climb. Don’t ever stop a bicyclist who’s going uphill. It’s rude.


So sad.


Lovely sunset.

The best part of the day was getting into Marathon. I rolled up and immediately met Ed, Uriel, and Meredith who were out in the hotel/campground courtyard enjoying a beer. After I got showered and my camp site set up they came over and asked if they could buy me dinner. So nice! So unexpected. They are on vacation biking around these parts. Uriel and Meredith are recently married. Uriel has biked across the US at least once and done several other bicycle tours in other parts of the world. We had a great dinner together at the 12 Gage Restaurant, adjacent to the Gage Hotel which was just up the street from our hotel. What a great way to end the day!


Uriel, Meredith & Ed (picture taken the next morning).

Day 21: Wind, Hills, & Stars

Van Horn, TX to McDonald Observatory (Fort Davis, TX)
Date: 01/22/2013
Distance traveled: 75.74 miles (1180.37 miles total)
GPS tracks: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/265407592


Standing on the 118… so little traffic, so wide open, and pretty smooth.

The ride today was a hilly & gorgeous one. I got away later than I intended – somewhere round 11am – which made for a late arrival at my destination, the McDonald Observatory. It didn’t help that I took a couple of pretty long stops during the day.


Indeed! Thanks for the warning.

For the first half of the ride I had an amazing tailwind – it blew me all the way to Kent. I was glad to get to Kent. From this point forward I will not be doing any more interstate shoulder riding. (At the time I thought this was a great thing, but after 3 more days on Texas ‘chip seal’ I found myself longing for some good ‘ole interstate concrete.)

Kent is an abandoned town. The only activity is FedEx trucks that use the abandoned gas station to swap trailers & cargo. It’s a pretty striking example of how a town can just ‘disappear’. Boarded up houses. Decrepit schoolhouse. I climbed up to the top of the hill where the water tower used to be to have lunch. It was a pretty view if you looked past the town below.


The old school house at Kent. You can see my lunch perch in the background.


Nothing to see here in Kent.

From Kent I got on the TX 118. And, of course, now the wind is no longer at my back. This is where the real climbing of the day began. It was really pretty, though, which made for a nice ride. I’ll admit that this was harder than I expected… a theme that will come out in the next few days… as I’ve discovered that the elevation profiles don’t accurately describe how hard the up and down and up and down of it all that can really make for hard riding.


Officer Morris.

Today was the first day I got to talk to law enforcement of any kind, too. There was an unmarked truck patrolling the 118. At one point it stopped and the driver got out and walked a bit of the road and I caught up to him. He was a state trooper out looking for border crossers. We chatted for a while – he told me about patrolling the area via helicopter, about when he catches the “poor bastards” he shakes their hand for trying… it’s a 7-10 day walk from the boarder up here! He also showed me how they use trash along the side of the road as markers, signals for the drivers that are supposed to pick up the walkers to let the cars know where they’re hiding in the brush.


Looking down the 118… lots of hills ahead!


Wide open.


Rolling hills on 118.


That little spec of light in the middle is the McDonald Observatory, only a few short miles away!

When I finally got to the observatory, I found the home of John, Deb and their kids who live up at the observatory. They are warm showers hosts who open their doors to anyone who wants to stay up at the observatory. John works there as a research scientists (I think that was his title…). I swooped in, showered, and immediately turned around to head to the visitor’s center for the evening’s “star party”.

On select nights of the week the observatory holds star parties. They invite visitors out to come out and look at the stars via various telescopes. They had some high and low powered telescopes pointed at the moon. One at Polaris, Andromeda, and a few other things. It was beautiful, but didn’t last very long. I’ve never seen the moon through telescopes like that – it was absolutely stunning! I also went in to watch the film in the auditorium. That was a mistake… it was a lame ass film from the 80s attempting to teach metric powers of ten.

After the star party I went back up to the house. After a quick dinner & chatting with the family I settled in for a restless night of sleep. After many dire warnings about how the cats may piss on my stuff, my sleeping bag (they’ve done it before) I couldn’t sleep… every time the cats stirred I woke up for fear of being sprayed. Also the floor smelled like piss. Not the best conditions for a good night of sleep.


My stuff piled up on the chair to avoid the cat piss.

Good thing the tour the next day made it worthwhile. :)