Day 14: Just another day on the road

Safford, AZ to Lordsburg, NM
Date: 01/15/2013
Distance traveled: 73.45 miles (742.9 miles total)
GPS tracks: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/262724619

I started the day yesterday with a great breakfast prepared by Gene Robert & Joy – very good waffles and bacon, and plenty of it! I simply could not believe how big and awesome their family is. Did I mention that Gene Robert and Joyce have 6 kids, 26 grandchildren, and 54 great-grandchildren!! Talk about a legacy! Wow.


Me, Gene Robert & Joyce

Pro Tip: If you’re a coffee drinker and going to be staying with families in this area of the country you should bring your own coffee. Members of the Mormon church are not likely to be slaves to the bean. I’ve discovered that the Folgers Black Silk (a knockoff of Starbucks Via) is very good and strong coffee at half the cost of the Via.


Ashley, myself, and Chase.

Chase, Ashley and I said goodbye and got on the road around 10am. As we expected, we all travel at different speeds so I chose to part ways with them early in the day. Chase road along with me for the first 35 miles of the day, and then stopped to spend the night in the adorable little town of Duncan, AZ. I stopped at the 3 Sisters Bakery for a cinnamon roll, had lunch with Chase, and then we parted ways. If you get a chance to stay at the Simpson Hotel Bed and Breakfast, you absolutely should. I was jealous of their accommodations for the night… but I had to keep on my schedule, (un)fortunately.


Chase climbing up one of our long, gradual hills of the day.

The best parts of today’s ride were that (1) I got into a new state and (2) we were honked at and waved at by many (over 10 for me) encouraging drivers. Lots of thumbs ups, “guy head nods”, waves, etc. It’s so so so nice to have that positive energy coming your way in comparison to how some days have gone. I think I may like New Mexico.


Enchanted.


Lots of wide open spaces today.


I am really not sure what is so “scenic” about these historical markers.


Days 12 & 13: Broken Bottle Blacktop & A Day of Rest

Globe, AZ to Safford, AZ
Date: 01/13/2013 – 01/14/2013
Distance traveled: 80.55 miles (669.45 miles total)
GPS tracks: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/262117401


Bundled up against the cold.

The twelfth day of the trip was the second longest day of biking I’ve done yet. It took me right at 8 hours to go 80 miles. It was also the coldest – starting around 30° F and not getting much above 45° F. I had long johns, bike shorts, and my rain pants on my legs. Up top I had two long sleeve shirts and two wind breakers. On my head I had two hats. And I was still cold in the wind!


Mount Graham from very far away. I forgot to get a better picture up close.

Most of the trip was through the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation. The two most impressive things about the ride were (1) the views of Mount Turnbull and Mount Graham and (2) the sheer volume of broken liquor bottles along Highway 70.


There were just miles and miles of broken glass along the home…

I had been told that the reservation is not a place you want to be at night due to the drunk driving. If the amount of broken bottles of booze, the number of crosses dedicated to those who’ve died along the highway, and the Arizona ‘adopt a highway’ sections which were ‘in loving memory of X’ were any indication then I’d say that’s a warning worth heeding.

The ride was pleasant except for Bylas, AZ. Apparently it’s a well-known-fact that you will be chased out of town by a large and vicious sounding rottweiler. Glad I was faster than him.

A Day of Rest


Mons in front of his culinary creation… he knows how to direct great work. Roasted vegetables, frittata, risotto, amazing Bryce-tatic chicken on the grill and brownies! Best meal of the trip!

I ended my ride at the home of Mons, Gene Robert, & Joy. I already intended to take Monday off and I enjoyed my time with them so much that I stayed two nights.

As usual my hosts were awesome. I particularly enjoyed my time chatting with Gene Robert who is the president of the board on the local energy coop. It was fascinating to get his take on clean energy, clean coal, and the EPA. He’s passionate and caring and frustrated all at the same time in terms of the pressures to become more green while not letting the costs overwhelm his customers. I would have loved to see him and Kerry McHugh have that same discussion.

I spent my day hanging out with Gene Robert & Joy – talking, running errands, going out to lunch for Gene Robert’s 83rd birthday. I even got a nap in there. I also got to spend a couple hours with Mons when I first got in which were really nice. It’s awesome to meet such caring and giving people out here on the road.


Mons, Ashley, Chase, Bryce & me.

I also had the added bonus of spending time with Ashley and Chase who are two cyclists heading the same direction as me who also stayed with the Larson family on the second night. We all made dinner together with Mons and his son Bryce. It was really nice to swap stories and hang out for a few hours.

Tomorrow I get back on the road and head towards Lordsburg, NM. A new state already!

Bonus picture:


Somehow this just looked like a crisis in faith.

 

 

Day 11: Advice & Warning

Superior, AZ to Globe, AZ
Date: 01/12/2013
Distance traveled: 25.68 miles (588.9 miles total)
GPS tracks: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/261340351

One of the more interesting things about bike touring is how different folks perceptions influence the advice that they give. I suppose that could be said for most things in life. In the case of bike touring, I’ve figured out a pretty simple formula for how to interpret advice based on who is giving it.

Note that this mostly applies to advice with respect to how easy the route is, if the hills are hard or easy, if there is a moderate incline or decline, if there is a ‘good shoulder’, or if the route is generally dangerous. Most folks give advice as if they’re driving in a car. In a car that slight incline for 10 miles doesn’t slowly zap your energy. In a car you don’t notice the slight raised cracks every 5 feet on the shoulder that are hell on your behind. In a car you don’t notice the scree on the shoulder. Even seasoned cyclists who know these things give bad advice for routes that they’ve only driven, or biked on their carbon road bike. When you get down to it, the only advice you can trust is that of other bike touring folks… and even that needs to be tempered with your own experience. (Not to say that I have a lot of experience… I don’t… I’m just now learning how my own body performs on an overloaded bicycle. J)

A good example of this is the advice I received this morning from Charles and Mari about today’s route. I’ll start by saying that it was very good advice with respect to the danger of the route. I was sufficiently warned. They know the road I was on forward and backward – they drive it several times a week. They are both cyclists. Charles had done the route in question on a bike. Mari refuses to do it, and I understand why. It is dangerous. I understand why they offer rides to cyclists past this 24 mile part of the route. I understand and appreciate the advice to do it on a weekend with lower traffic, and in later in the day so that the sun isn’t in the motorist’s eyes. I think had I not been doing this section on a Saturday afternoon it would have been much more dangerous and I would have been less comfortable with that.


The Tunnel!!!11!!one1!!!

I greatly appreciated their concern – it was genuine, it was sweet, and I think it was warranted. However I don’t think it was as hard or as dangerous as I was previously warned. The first four miles were very sketchy, but not the worse I’ve seen. The shoulder disappears quickly out of Superior. You’re going very slow uphill. There is a tunnel I was warned about repeatedly, by Charles and Mari as well as at least 2-3 other folks. I had heard it called “the most dangerous part of the southern tier between California and Florida”, but the tunnel wasn’t the most dangerous part. It was the blind corners and the zero shoulder on the bridge that had me racing across between flights of traffic.


That bridge in the distance was the dangerous part.

The tunnel has no shoulder. Heck, large chunks of the road had no shoulder. Normally that’s pretty dangerous, but the eastbound route has either two full lanes or a single lane with a pretty normal-width shoulder. There are very few sections where it’s one lane eastbound with zero shoulder. That makes it much safer than I had been lead to believe. I will say that traffic was light enough that both lanes were almost never filled with traffic… had that not been the case, I think it would have scared the crap out of me.

The big thing is to use your mirrors, watch the traffic behind you to make sure they’re giving you room, and ride defensively if they are not. For example, I swing out and take the inner lane as I go around blind turns to give cars behind me plenty of time to see me… and then I move over to give them more room as they approach. It helps to put more space between me and the car. Of course, this only works well if you have a good rearview bike mirror to work with. Other things I do – I wear the brightest orange jacket I could find, and I use my rear lights when it’s dark (like in a tunnel) and when I’m in shadows. There’s no 100% safe on the road but I think these things work to make doing this kind of riding acceptably safe.


Looking back through Devil’s Canyon.

After the bridge and the tunnel it was actually a pretty great ride. Yah, there was a lot of up. But it was no worse than what I did on Day 2 coming out of San Diego. In fact, it was easier because there was some wicked awesome downhill, too. At the peak of the ride there is a town called “Top Of The World”. Awesome.

Altogether, today was a pretty damn fun ride despite it being so cold. I was really happy that I spent the morning hanging out with Charles and Mari, eating a great second breakfast of grits, eggs, and bacon while we swapped stories until noon. I didn’t take off until around 1pm and I was only on the bike for 3 hours today. However, it was the coldest day I’ve had on the bike yet. Colder than the Chilly Hilly last year! I ended it as the thermometer dropped below 33° F! I was quite happy to get to the Days Inn in Globe, take a shower, hit the hot tub, shower again, and then put back an entire medium supreme pizza from Pizza Hut.


Alright… so obviously it’s a little dangerous. These are both for the same person killed in 2005. Mari said there were 5 crosses made out of bike handlebars along this stretch of road. I only saw these two.


The view from on top.